![]() WHen the hoist is stowed and the cable spooled into the overhead, the plug is only a shiny spot in the concrete It's 3/4 and I've tested it to 8000 lb pull at a 28 degree up angle. Add a chainfall topping lift and a shain hoist and I can lift two tons off trucks I can't fit in my driveway. I have a plug in my floor where I aanchor a wore rope that extended from lfoor to thop of the big shop wall thrugh the small shop attic to the stree side wass where I have a vanged boom. Remove the SHCS, add a thick washer and employ whatever fastener suits. Plug the hole with a SHCSso the top ot the head is flish with the floor surface. Use the tapped hole variety if you wish removal. Concrete is not a goot stressed mechanical interface. ![]() I think removing the whole anchor every time is impractical. Salt water service I used stainless.Īnchors with tapped holes are available in many form factors and varieties. That way floor dirt stayed out of the tapped holes and the floor was smooth to sweep. I cast them below the surface so a slotted plug was flush with the floor. I used to make anchors of deformed re-bar with tapped holes in them for equipment hold down, vang or guy attachments when, etc where I wanted flush surfaces when the anchors weren't being used. I used the old double-nut trick to install and remove the studs. For the all but the mill I used threaded rod as studs and set the tools down on the studs. My lathe and mill have welded on tabs and were easier to align. ![]() Most of my machines were no "bolted" down because, for one thing, it is rather difficult to get everything aligned just right when going through the holes in a cast iron base like many drill-presses and grinders have. Check the actual setting often or better yet replace it with thin threaded rod because it tends to move when the drill is vibrating and kinda defeats the purpose. Most hammerdrills have some sort of depth stop rod. All depends on the quality of the concrete you have. If you screw up one hole you may have to have a spacing of at least a couple of inches between the old and the new hole. Too deep is too deep, too shallow is too shallow, and you will have a helluvatime changing it if you expand the "nut" in a too shallow hole. The Hilti I used was perfect for the job. I borrowed a friends Hilti TE-15c and I bought a couple of new bits (also Hilti brand) and it was a piece of cake. I started out drilling holes with some no-name hammerdrill and it absolutely sucked. It makes no difference if you have one holes to drill or a hundred. Use a good quality hammerdrill to make the holes and good quality bits.
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